Cycling the Shimanami Kaido on a Brompton Day 1

– Day 1: Imabari to Onomichi

First overseas cycling trip on my Brompton Japan’s Shimanami Kaido. 

My Setup: Brompton + DIY IKEA DIMPA Bag
For this trip I rode my Brompton folding bike, which was perfect for moving between airport, train, and city streets. To transport the bike, I used an IKEA DIMPA bag that I reinforced with soundproofing foam. It turned into a surprisingly sturdy and practical DIY bike travel bag, and I was really satisfied with how it performed during flights and transfers.

– Day 1: Imabari to Onomichi

It’s already been a year since I started riding my Brompton, and from the beginning there was one clear goal in mind: taking this little folding bike abroad. I also wanted something easy to load onto buses and trains for long cross-country rides back home in Korea. Somewhere along the way, I even managed to complete the Grand Slam this year – and to celebrate, I finally went on my very first overseas cycling trip.

That trip was the Shimanami Kaido, the famous cycling route in Japan that connects Imabari and Onomichi across a chain of islands over the Seto Inland Sea. It’s often called a cyclist’s paradise, and now I understand why.

This is Part 1 of my Shimanami Kaido series, covering Day 1: Imabari → Onomichi.

Day 1 Route Summary

Day 1 Highlights

• Arrive at Matsuyama Airport
• Ride to JR Matsuyama Station
• Transfer and arrive at Imabari Station
• Cross the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge
• Oshima Island (lunch stop)
• “Sanctuary of Cyclists” Monument
• Hakata–Oshima Bridge
• Omishima Island
• Tatara Bridge
• Ikuchi Island
• Ikuchi Bridge
• Innoshima Island
• Innoshima Bridge
• Mukaishima Island
• Onomichi Bridge
• Check-in at Trailer Inn Onomichi

This is the classic Imabari to Onomichi Shimanami Kaido route, crossing multiple islands and iconic bridges in a single day.

From Matsuyama Airport to Imabari Station

The trip started at Matsuyama Airport, where I unpacked my Brompton from the IKEA DIMPA bag, assembled it, and rolled straight out of the terminal. One of the big advantages of a folding bike is that you can move from plane to city streets in minutes without dealing with oversized bike boxes.

From the airport, I rode into the city toward JR Matsuyama Station. It was a nice warm-up spin before the real Shimanami Kaido ride began. At the station, I caught a train to Imabari, the official starting point of the Shimanami Kaido cycling route.

I had two train tickets, but at the ticket gate, you need to insert both of them at the same time. The ticket inspector even punched holes in them—a small but charming old-fashioned touch that felt uniquely Japanese.
The train itself had a nostalgic, retro feel, which I actually loved. It wasn’t modern or high-speed, but that’s part of the charm when traveling through rural Japan.
As we left the city center and rolled toward the coast, the view outside the window became unmistakably Japanese. Since the line mostly follows the shoreline of the Seto Inland Sea, the deep blue sea stays in constant view—a beautiful preview of the Shimanami Kaido cycling route ahead.

I got on the train in Matsuyama, and even though it was only one stop, it took about an hour to reach Imabari Station.

I snapped a quick photo at the Imabari Station spot and then headed straight out.
There’s a friendly blue line on the ground that guides you along the Shimanami Kaido route just like a national cycling route, so you don’t even need navigation.

The first landmark you meet is the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge.
Like Busan Harbor Bridge, the approach road spirals upward in loops, and I was really impressed that they designed the cycling path this way—it felt so cool to ride.

The weather was sunny and perfect for cycling, but I had to battle strong headwinds the entire way. Still, I pushed hard through the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge and kept going.

Most bridges on the Shimanami Kaido cycling route feature steady climbs—800m to 1.2km long with 2-4% gradients. The downhills are cleverly designed with safe, winding paths that let you descend comfortably and enjoy the ride. You’ll find bike rental shops between nearly every bridge, which explains why so many international cyclists were out there riding alongside me.

Oshima Island: Granite Quarries and Limited Lunch Options

My first lunch stop was Oshima Island, the initial island after crossing from Imabari. This place is known for its granite quarries—you’ll see quarry sites scattered everywhere, giving the island a rugged, industrial charm unique to the Shimanami Kaido.

Finding restaurants proved tricky though. I was starving after the morning ride, but options were scarce…

Then I spotted 石のカフェ (Ishi no Cafe)—”Stone Cafe,” perfectly fitting the island’s granite theme. It’s a cozy cafe that serves chicken curry rice… but only 10 portions per day. Don’t miss out if you’re hungry!

Pro Tip: This spot is run by friendly local seniors, so bring cash only—no cards accepted. A must-visit for Shimanami Kaido food stops on Oshima Island.

Salad, Japanese-style chicken curry rice, and iced latte—a perfect refueling stop! 😄

Pushing through the headwinds, I kept riding strong until Omishima Island. Right before crossing the Tatara Bridge, there’s a perfect photo spot—definitely worth stopping for! 😄

“Sanctuary of Cyclists” Monument with the majestic Tatara Bridge in the background

Quick ride through Ikuchi Island—picking up the pace!

From here, the headwinds really started to wear me down, but the clear blue skies and sparkling sea kept me motivated to push on.

On Innoshima Island, crossing to Mukaishima Island via the Innoshima Bridge was unique—unlike the other bridges, you ride underneath the main structure!

By the time I reached Mukaishima Island, the light was starting to fade—it was getting dusky. I sprinted the final stretch to make it to my accommodation, but the sun had already set by the time I arrived. Pro tip for Shimanami Kaido cyclists: Always pack front lights and rear lights—essential for late-day finishes!

My lodging was Trailer Inn Onomichi, literally a trailer parked right near the Onomichi Bridge. It was super convenient location-wise, but aside from the isolated spot with no staff around (lol), it was actually a surprisingly nice place.

The interior was clean and well-equipped—complete with a washing machine, perfect after a sweaty day of cycling. Everything you need for a comfortable Shimanami Kaido overnight stay.

I received the password via message, but when I punched it into the door… nothing happened. I fumbled around confused for a good while, wondering why it wouldn’t open! 😂

Turns out it wasn’t a digital door lock code—it was for a keybox. The actual house key was inside the keybox. Classic travel mix-up, but once I figured it out, check-in was smooth!

It was getting dark and I was starving, so I quickly showered and fired up Google Maps to find dinner… but nothing was open.

It was only 8 PM…

The reality hit me: the entire area around Trailer Inn Onomichi was pitch black. No streetlights anywhere. 😑

Thanks to the faint glow from passing cars’ taillights, I could barely make out the road. 😄

Still, with two guys together, we just kept walking straight ahead. Eventually, we found a place that was open—Gohyaku-en (五百圓), a cozy local izakaya!

Jackpot! We dove right in with draft beer first, then kept the orders coming non-stop. 🍻

Draft beer (nama biru)! Assorted sashimi (3 kinds), and mixed fritters (assortment)! 🍺🐟🍤

Hiyasake (chilled sake), squid leg tempura, and tsukune (chicken meatballs)—we polished everything off clean, but the hunger still wasn’t satisfied! 😄

Next door was Popura, a convenience store I’d never seen before. Local Japanese folks walking by were raving about their bento boxes being delicious, so we popped in for some storm shopping!

Loaded up on sandwiches, snacks, cup ramen, a six-pack of beer, and grabbed ice cream for the walk back. We made it safely to the accommodation and finally closed out this very long Day 1 of Shimanami Kaido cycling! 😄

Day 1 Shimanami Kaido Stats (Imabari to Onomichi):

• Total Distance: 89 km
• Total Elevation: 617 meters
• Moving Time: 4 hours 50 minutes

Whew! There were more little episodes along the way, but if I included everything, this would turn into a full novel…

So I’ll wrap up Shimanami Kaido Day 1 here.

Thanks for reading this long post! Day 2 coming soon—stay tuned.

Organizing and writing these memories is tiring but such a great way to preserve the good times!