Cycling the Shimanami Kaido on a Brompton Day 3

Strictly speaking, my Shimanami Kaido journey officially ended on Day 2. My original plan was to take the train back from Imabari to Matsuyama (just like I did on the first day). However, the weather was perfect and a favorable tailwind was blowing toward Matsuyama, so we made a bold decision: Let’s ride all the way back!

Day 3 Itinerary: Check-out (Imabari Kokusai Hotel) > Imabari Castle > Route 196 > Oura Rest Area > The “Surprise” Uphill > Dogo Onsen > Lunch (Tsuruchan Dogo) > Matsuyama Castle Lift & Donjon > Check-in (REF Matsuyama City Station by Vessel Hotels)

Starting the Day at Imabari Castle
Since we opted for the hotel breakfast, we fueled up right at 7 AM. Returning to the room, I found an English newspaper hanging on the doorknob—a thoughtful touch! It actually came in quite handy for soaking up moisture from our damp gear.

Imabari Castle was just a short hop from the hotel. It’s a unique “flatland” castle surrounded by a moat filled with seawater. Since it’s connected to the ocean, I saw large fish jumping and tiny crabs scurrying along the stone walls.

Inside the castle stands a statue of Todo Takatora. Unlike most samurai statues clad in heavy armor, he is depicted in everyday robes. He was a master castle architect known for designing numerous fortresses across Japan. Note: As of April 1, 2024, the entrance coupon has changed from “Free” to “Discounted.” Since I already had a free pass for Matsuyama Castle, I decided to skip the interior here.

The Unexpected Challenge: The Blue Line & The “Hell” Hill
Setting off for Matsuyama, I noticed a Blue Line on the road labeled “Dogo / Matsuyama.” This line guides cyclists along Route 196. I turned off my GPS and simply followed the paint.

The route followed a two-lane national road. While some sections had narrow shoulders and decent traffic, Japanese drivers were incredibly considerate, giving us plenty of space. As we passed through the Kikuma-cho Hama area, the sky cleared up beautifully, though the sun started to get quite intense.

We were cruising along Route 196 perfectly… until my friend (the lead rider) suddenly veered off onto an uphill path. I followed, thinking he knew a shortcut. Soon, the Blue Line disappeared. The incline got steeper, hitting 12-13% gradients.

Struggling on a 4-speed Brompton while dancing on the pedals was no joke. With cars piling up behind us and others coming down, I eventually had to swallow my pride and perform my first-ever “Hike-a-Bike” (walking the bike). I seriously regretted not upgrading to a 7-speed before this trip!

It turns out Route 196 would have been much flatter; my friend just accidentally picked the “scenic” (read: painful) route. At the summit, we found a vending machine—it felt like an angel had placed it there. I downed a cold Coke in one go and rested on the pavement using a guidebook as a seat.

Recharging at Dogo Onsen
From the summit, it was a smooth (mostly) downhill ride into the city. We arrived at Dogo Onsen around 2 PM, drenched in sweat.

We used our free coupons to access the Asuka-no-Yu public bath. Though the “Grand Bath” was smaller than expected, a 60-minute soak was exactly what our tired muscles needed.

Post-bath, the hunger kicked in. Most restaurants were hitting their afternoon break, but we found a hidden gem: Nadai Tsuruchan (Dogo Branch). They serve refreshing Udon and have no break time! I had the dipping-style Udon, and my friend had the cold broth version. It was delicious, though a bit pricey due to the touristy location.

Matsuyama Castle: A Race Against Time
We had to reach the Matsuyama Castle cable car by 4:00 PM to use our coupons. We rushed over and made it at exactly 3:58 PM!

The staff suggested the chairlift instead of the cable car for a faster ascent. My friend has a slight fear of heights, but the lift is very stable (even without seatbelts!). It’s also great for taking photos of the person behind you if you twist your torso a bit.

The castle is a designated Important Cultural Property. The view from the top of the Donjon (keep) was breathtaking, offering a 360-degree panorama of the city.

Final Thoughts and Farewell
We wrapped up Day 3 with 52.29 km of riding and about 330m of elevation gain. Our final stay was at the REF Matsuyama City Station by Vessel Hotels, a strategically chosen spot for our early flight the next day.

While our final dinners were a bit of a hit-or-miss in terms of quality and hygiene (Google maps ratings don’t always tell the whole story!), the overall journey was incredible.

The next morning, it started raining. We traded our bikes for a taxi to the airport (making sure they took credit cards first!). Looking out the window, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the memories made.

After checking into the REF Matsuyama City Hotel by Vessel Hotels, I went out to find dinner. I was a bit tired of Izakayas after two nights in a row, so I spotted a Yakiniku place that looked delicious—though it was a bit pricey and far.

I started walking all the way through Gintengai, but then it hit me: I forgot my credit card. 🤦‍♂️

By the time I walked back to the hotel to grab it, I lost the energy to trek back out. Instead, I decided to settle for a Yakiniku restaurant right across from the hotel called Enzo.

Unfortunately, the Google rating was 3.9. I should have remembered my golden rule: Never go somewhere rated below 4.0. It was a bit disappointing.

Determined to save the night, I headed to a second spot—an Izakaya named Maruhan with a stellar 4.7-rating.

The owner was a huge baseball fan, and the young staff member seemed very kind and hardworking. However, despite the friendly atmosphere, the experience was a letdown. The taste of the food and the hygiene standards were… well, let’s just say I had to bite my tongue.

With a heavy heart (and an unsatisfied stomach), I stopped by a Konbini (convenience store) to pick up some beer and snacks for a final “consolation” round at the hotel. Outside, the clouds were starting to gather.

Farewell, Matsuyama

The next morning, it was raining steadily. My original plan was to ride my bike all the way to the airport, but the weather had other ideas. I hailed a taxi instead—making sure to ask if they accepted credit cards since I was out of cash!

Unlike the frantic rush of my arrival day, I spent my final hours at the airport in total relaxation, waiting for my flight.

Goodbye, Matsuyama! Thank you for the wonderful and fun memories.

This concludes the story of my very first overseas riding trip. Thank you so much for reading this long review; I hope it provides some helpful insight for your future travels.

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Wishing you all safe and happy riding, always!